W Oparach Absurdu

Any proper visit to Warsaw must include a look at the trendy and bohemian Praga district, across the river from the old town. Amongst the number of bars and cafes on Zabkowska Street, Praga's main drag, is W Operach Absurdu ('in the mists of absurdity'), which stands out with a winning combination of charm and eccentricity.

Originally intended as a taste of artistic Krakow to counter Warsaw's more business and fashion oriented approach, you are immediately startled by the giant spider sculpture suspended over the entrance. Upon entering you find a labyrinthine yet compact interior arranged over several levels, furnished and decorated in somewhat insane fashion. With cinema seats, huge comfy armchairs, old sewing machine tables, random ottomans and no end of bizarre knick-knacks you might more typically find in a flea market.

As one might expect, an eclectic choice of music oozes from the loudspeakers, with the added bonus of frequent live bands - think Balkan, folk, blues, jazz and even a bit of rock'n'roll. The usual range of drinks hot and cold is supplemented with a modest menu of bites and snacks such as bigos, pierogis, salads, fries and cakes. Art exhibitions and happenings feature heavily, and if you drop by on a night when there's nothing on the bill then there's endless amusement to be found just by looking around the place.

Hugely popular with the more 'alternative' crowd, W Operach Absurdu lays a strong claim to being one of Warsaw's most original bars. Couple that with a genuinely friendly ambience and the myriad objects of interest strewn hither and thither, and you have an absolutely un-missable night out.